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In society today there is a clear divide between fashions considered feminine and those considered masculine. However, is this a result of the fashion industry itself, or is the industry merely reflecting the changing attitudes of society as a whole? It is difficult to determine where the line between gender reproduction and gender construction stands in regards to fashion and dress, as it can be read in a number of ways. Fashion has been used in attempts to deconstruct gender stereotypes, as in some cases of cross dressing, but has also been used as a means of reinforcing them via items like the high heeled shoe. Fashion has been a part of western culture for centuries and as fashion has changed so too has its significations. The style of the garments we wear, their fabrics and colours, all carry signifiers of various aspects of our lives. In times past, fashion trends were set by the middle and upper classes, with the result that fashion became a signifier of social standing. For example during the Baroque period of the seventeenth century it was fashionable for both men and woman of the upper classes to wear garments decorated with large amounts of lace and ribbon (Stecker, 1996, p14). This gave men's fashion a highly feminine appearance; however they were quite distinct from the lower classes which did not utilise such decoration. In the present day this class distinction has lessened and a gender distinction has become predominant. This division is established almost as soon as we are born. In western culture it is customary for male babies to wear blue and female babies to wear pink. earning a living) (Lurie, 1992, p214). In the adult world it is acceptable for women to wear blue, however men still rarely wear pink, and those who do are often accused of being effeminate and homosexual (Lurie, 1992, p214). One theory states that one of the first functions of clothing was to attract the opposite sex. By only revealing and highlighting specific parts of the body, much can be left to the imagination and thus sexual desire is increased (Lurie, 1992, p213). This is similar to Freud's assertion that "visual impressions remain the most frequent pathway along which libidinal excitation is aroused" (Freud, 1977, p69). In order to be successful in attracting a member of the opposite sex the garments must therefore serve to distinguish men from women. On a basic level this can be seen in department stores where the women's clothing section is distinct from the men's. However the relationship between fashion and gender is significantly more complicated, with the definition of what gender actually is having a significant effect on how fashion could be seen to impact it.

In society today there is a clear divide between fashions considered feminine and those considered masculine. However, is this a result of the fashion industry itself, or is the industry merely reflecting the changing attitudes of society as a whole? It is difficult to determine where the line between gender reproduction and gender construction stands in regards to fashion and dress, as it can be read in a number of ways. Fashion has been used in attempts to deconstruct gender stereotypes, as in some cases of cross dressing, but has also been used as a means of reinforcing them via items like the high heeled shoe. Fashion has been a part of western culture for centuries and as fashion has changed so too has its significations. The style of the garments we wear, their fabrics and colours, all carry signifiers of various aspects of our lives. In times past, fashion trends were set by the middle and upper classes, with the result that fashion became a signifier of social standing. For example during the Baroque period of the seventeenth century it was fashionable for both men and woman of the upper classes to wear garments decorated with large amounts of lace and ribbon (Stecker, 1996, p14). This gave men's fashion a highly feminine appearance; however they were quite distinct from the lower classes which did not utilise such decoration. In the present day this class distinction has lessened and a gender distinction has become predominant. This division is established almost as soon as we are born. In western culture it is customary for male babies to wear blue and female babies to wear pink. earning a living) (Lurie, 1992, p214). In the adult world it is acceptable for women to wear blue, however men still rarely wear pink, and those who do are often accused of being effeminate and homosexual (Lurie, 1992, p214). One theory states that one of the first functions of clothing was to attract the opposite sex. By only revealing and highlighting specific parts of the body, much can be left to the imagination and thus sexual desire is increased (Lurie, 1992, p213). This is similar to Freud's assertion that "visual impressions remain the most frequent pathway along which libidinal excitation is aroused" (Freud, 1977, p69). In order to be successful in attracting a member of the opposite sex the garments must therefore serve to distinguish men from women. On a basic level this can be seen in department stores where the women's clothing section is distinct from the men's. However the relationship between fashion and gender is significantly more complicated, with the definition of what gender actually is having a significant effect on how fashion could be seen to impact it.

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Judith Butler has been an influential figure in the study of whether gender is a construction or inherent. According to Butler in her book Gender Trouble, a gender identity is a series of gender signifiers, for example, gestures, which are learnt via mimesis and reinforced through repetition (Butler, 1990, p6). Through this reinforcement the performance of gender also becomes internalised so that we come to believe these masculine and feminine identities are 'normal'. As such, gender is a social construction imposed on individuals based on their anatomy (sexual identity) (Butler, 1990, p6 If gender identity is learnt, then it is not inherent, and therefore does not necessarily coincide with ones sexual identity. By encoding specific garments and styles as either feminine or masculine, it becomes much clearer what gender someone is because their appearance (and as such part of their gender identity) is expected to coincide with their sexual identity. In this way, what is considered masculine and feminine in regards to dress is also a social construction. As fashion is primarily considered a feminine concern (, it is through examples of the female gender identity that fashions influence can best be seen.

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In vitro culture of mutant lungs also showed an altered responsed to TGF ? when in vivo In adult mice, PtenNkx2.1 cre lungs exhibit increased progenitor cell pools comprised of basal cells in the trachea, CGRP/CC10 double positive neuroendocrine cells in the bronchi and CC10/SpC double positive cells in the bronchioalveolar duct junction (BADJ). Pten deletion impacted differentiation of various lung epithelial cell lineages, with decreased number of terminally differentiated cells. Over time, PtenNxk2.1 cre epithelial cells residing in the BADJ underwent proliferation, and formed uniform masses, supporting the concept that the cells residing in this distal niche may also be the source of pro carcinogenic "stem" cells. Finally, increased progenitor cells in all the lung compartments conferred an overall selective advantage to naphthalene injury compared to wild type control mice. PtenDermo1cre embryonic lungs, moreover, showed normal lung development but increased collagen1 and extracellular matrix production. Conclusions: Pten has a pivotal role in lung stem cell homeostasis, cell differentiation and consequently resistance to lung injury in the epithelium, Further studies are necessary to clarify the real role of Pten in lung mesenchyme. Abstract (italiano)Rationale: Pten e' un gene coinvolto nell'omeostasi delle cellule staminali e nella formazione di tumori. Nei topi, Pten inizia ad essere presente 7 giorni dopo il concepimento. Pten ha un ruolo critico nello sviluppo embrionale: gli embrioni di topo Pten / , infatti, muoiono molto presto durante la gestazione. Scopo dello studio: Studiare il ruolo di Pten nello sviluppo polmonare, eliminando Pten nell'epitelio polmonare, incrociando Ptenflox/flox con topi portatori di Nkx2.1 cre; Pten e' stato anche eliminato dal mesenchima polmonare incrociando Ptenflox/flox con topi Dermo1 cre. I risultanti PtenNkx2.1cre sono stati analizzati alla ricerca di difetti nello sviluppo polmonare. Risultati: I polmoni PtenNkx2.1 cre hanno evidenziato in vitro una alterata risposta al TGF ?. In vivo non presentavano nessuna alterazione nel branching bensi una iperplasia polmonare nelle vie aerre. Nei topi adulti, I polmoni PtenNkx2.1 cre presentavano un aumentato pool di cellule progenitori in tutti i distretti: nella trachea, le cellule basali, nei bronchi le cellule neuroepiteliali, positive per CGRP/CC10 ed infine, nella giunzione tra gli alveoli e I bronchi terminali (BADJ), le cellule positive per Spc/CC10. L'assenza di Pten ha un impatto nella differenziazione cellulare, con un diminuito aumento delle cellule all'ultimo stadio di differenziazione. Nel tempo, le cellule epiteliali PtenNxk2.1 cre residenti a livello del BADJ proliferano e formano delle masse di tipo tumorale; questi dati supportano l'idea che le cellule presenti in questa niche possano essere l'origine delle cosidette "pro carcinogenic stem cells". L'aumento delle cellule progenitrici, inoltre, conferisce un selettivo vantaggio dopo danno polmonare. I topi con Pten eliminato nell'epitelio, invece, non evidenziavano ne uno sviluppo polmonare alterato ne una alterata differenziazione delle cellule mesenchimali; tuttavia, dimostravano un aumentata deposizione di collagene1 e di matrice extracellulare. Conclusioni: Pten ha un ruolo importante nell'omeostasi delle cellule progenitori del polmone, nella differenziazione epiteliale polmonare e nella resistenza dopo danno. Ulteriori studi sono necessary per chiarire l'esatto ruolo di Pten nel mesenchima polmonare. EndNote FormatBibliografiaI riferimenti della bibliografia possono essere cercati con Cerca la citazione di AIRE, copiando il titolo dell'articolo (o del libro) e la rivista (se presente) nei campi appositi di "Cerca la Citazione di AIRE".Le url contenute in alcuni riferimenti sono raggiungibili cliccando sul link alla fine della citazione (Vai!) e tramite Google (Ricerca con Google). Il risultato dipende dalla formattazione della citazione. Schriml and M. Dean, Mutational spectra of PTEN/MMAC1 gene: a tumor suppressor with lipid phosphatase activity, J. Natl. Cancer Inst. 91 (1999), pp. 1922 1932. R., Vig, P., Russo, F., Bigger, B. W., Amofah, E., Themis, M. and Forbes, S. (2004). Hepatic stem cells: from inside and outside the liver? Cell Prolif. 37, 1 21. Hawkins, Translocation of PDK 1 to the plasma membrane is important in allowing PDK 1 to activate protein kinase B, Curr. Biol. 8 (1998), pp. 684 691. Van Wesep, D. Liaw, K. Clarke, R. Dahia, Z. Gorlin, C. Eng, J. Wang, S. Tsou and M. Peacocke, Deletion of PTEN in a patient with Bannayan Riley Ruvalcaba syndrome suggests allelism with Cowden disease, Am. J. Med. Genet. 71 (1997), pp. 489 493. and Kikkawa, Y. (1976). Morphologic and biochemical study of pulmonary changes induced by bleomycin in mice. Lab. Invest. 35,558 568. Skilleter, T. Knowles, Somatic mutation of PTEN in bladder carcinoma, Br. J. Cancer 80 (1999), pp. 904 908. and Peault, B. (2005). Aquaporin 3 expression in human fetal airway epithelial progenitor cells. Stem Cells 23,992 1001. Pre translational regulation by glucocorticoid of fatty acid and phosphatidylcholine synthesis in type II cells from fetal rat lung. FEBS Lett 307: 164 168, 1992. Respiratory failure due to differentiation arrest and expansion of alveolar cells following lung specific loss of the transcription factor C/EBPalpha in mice. Mol Cell Biol 26: 1109 1123, 2006. Bellusci, J. Grindley, H. Emoto, N. Hogan, Fibroblast growth factor 10 (FGF10) and branching morphogenesis in the embryonic mouse lung, Development 124 (23) (1997), pp. 4867 4878. K. (1967). Proliferation of respiratory tract epithelium in the rat. Exp. Cell Res. Nat Med. 1997 Jul;3(7):730 7. P., Beddington, R. S. and Zaret, K. S. (2004). Hex homeobox gene dependent tissue positioning is required for organogenesis of the ventral pancreas. Development 131,797 806. Franke, E. Stanbridge, S. Reed, Regulation of cell death protease caspase 9 by phosphorylation, Science 282 (1998), pp. 1318 1321. Regulation of early lung morphogenesis: questions, facts and controversies. Development. 2006 May;133(9):1611 24. Alessi, P. Cohen, M. Hemmings, Inhibition of glycogen synthase kinase 3 by insulin mediated by protein kinase B, Nature 378 (1995), pp. 785 789. Relat. Cancer 7 (2000), pp. 115 129. Calcineurin/Nfat signaling is required for perinatal lung maturation and function. J Clin Invest 116: 2597 2609, 2006. 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Judith Butler has been an influential figure in the study of whether gender is a construction or inherent. According to Butler in her book Gender Trouble, a gender identity is a series of gender signifiers, for example, gestures, which are learnt via mimesis and reinforced through repetition (Butler, 1990, p6). Through this reinforcement the performance of gender also becomes internalised so that we come to believe these masculine and feminine identities are 'normal'. As such, gender is a social construction imposed on individuals based on their anatomy (sexual identity) (Butler, 1990, p6 If gender identity is learnt, then it is not inherent, and therefore does not necessarily coincide with ones sexual identity. By encoding specific garments and styles as either feminine or masculine, it becomes much clearer what gender someone is because their appearance (and as such part of their gender identity) is expected to coincide with their sexual identity. In this way, what is considered masculine and feminine in regards to dress is also a social construction. As fashion is primarily considered a feminine concern (, it is through examples of the female gender identity that fashions influence can best be seen.

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Fashion can certainly be used to parody, subvert and deconstruct gender identities (particularly the feminine), however, in the mainstream, it can only ever reflect the social conscious behind it. If society is not ready for men to wear skirts, then skirts will not be bought by the majority of men. Whilst designers like Jean Paul Gaultier can attempt to deconstruct gender stereotypes through fashion, many of these subversions can still be read as supporting the distinction between gender identities. Fashion and dress is influenced by both the body itself and the range of signs that it refers to, making it difficult to determine where fashion ends and social consciousness begins.

Gaultier's design can be read as an attempt at subverting the objectification of women through fashion. By taking on a traditional signifier of women's restriction, that is, the corset, and placing large cone shaped breasts on it, it can be said that Gaultier has created an image of female empowerment (French, 2004). By making the corset visible he highlights the way in which women have been forced to conform to accepted standards of beauty, and the way in which these standards are constructed. The cones add to this reading by removing the maternal aspects of the breast and indicating the way in which they have been objectified and the unnatural form that has become the beauty standard in western culture (French, 2004). However this design could also be seen not as a parody and symbol of empowerment, but as a reinforcement of patriarchal ideals.

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